"Exactly ..."

Yesterday lunchtime I visited 'The Guild Church of Saint Mary Abchurch", which just happens to be attached to the back of the building I work in ...

A church has stood on the site since the 12th century, but was burnt down in the Great Fire of London in 1666 (Which started about 300m to the left of the church). All that remains from the original church are three pieces of the alter plate, a silver chalice made in 1581, and the church registers from 1538, along with the vaulted crypt under the present churchyard (Where we gather for our fire alarm tests!), which means the two bars adjoining the churchyard can't have tables outside as alcohol is not permitted in a churchyard! (and no, the photo wasn't taken whilst under the influence ...)

Work on rebuilding the church commenced in 1681, built to designs by Sir Christopher Wren (He also designed St Paul's Cathedral), and was completed 5 years later. Wren, at that time was experimenting with domes, and the church has one of his earlier attempts. The dome itself is an architectural marvel as it has no external thrusts, but stands on 4 plain brick walls without any need of buttresses.

Other than the removal of box pews in the 19th century, when the present low pews, choir stalls and alter rails were installed, the church has changed very little since its completion in 1686.

The church is only open to the public on a Tuesday lunchtime, so I planned my week accordingly (I really *should* get out more) to visit. There was a bloke with a folder ready to talk to visitors about the building if they wished, but as he was busy with a group of tourists I had a wander around. The first thing that struck me was how the building smelt like a church - there's always a smell I associate with churches, a musty, old books, old wood, just old really smell. I also had that 'church' feeling, which I didn't have in the last church I visited. The other thing that stuck was how non-descript the building is on the outside, compared to how it is inside. I've mentioned the dome, but unless you know it's there you'd never realise from looking at the building from the outside there was a 40 foot dome on the building!

The feller with the folder became available, and came over to have a chat .. So I mentioned how I was planning on going round all 56 churches in the square mile, the American friends I have who read this blog, and generally said nice things about the church - to which his replies all started with "Exactly ...". Still, he was a nice bloke and let me ignore the 'Private' sign leading up to the organ gallery to take pictures.

The organ was impressive (Though the 21st century fire extinguishers detract from the 16th century organ!), though I didn't feel entirely safe up there - people in the 16th century obviously weren't 6 feet tall - or quite as health and safety concious as we are now as the ledge which would stop me falling into the nave of the church came up to my knees ...

The gallery did me the opportunity to look at the dome a lot more closely though. The dome isn't lit as the light causes the already faint paint to fade. The artwork was quite amazing, especially when you consider it was painted by a parishoner, William Snow, in 1708 (He was paid £170 for his work!). The painting depicts 'the worship of heaven, with, in the centre the Divine Name in Hebrew characters surrounded rays of glory, with worshipping figures of angels and chreubs beneath' - or so the leaflet I paid 20p for tells me, and I'll have to take its word for it as the painting has seen better days ... The picture below was taken by putting my camera phone on the floor directly beneath the centre of the dome, and setting the timer ...

Still, I liked this church ...